So today I decided to go to a hair salon and allow someone else to handle my hair wet. I know I'm meant to be a natural hair guru and give you tips about taking care of your own hair, but I realised that not all of you have the time and patience for overnight conditioning and day long hair washing routines. Plus even seasoned naturals, especially those haven't quite mastered their flat-twist, need a trusted place to go to when they want to do a cute hairstyle but aren't in the mood for an arm workout.

The aim of these of these posts will be build a database, hopefully one that covers all provinces, of all salons that do natural hair and review each one. Obviously because we live in Cyril's economy, I won't be able to do them every week, but Ill definitely try out different places as often as possible.

What I'll be looking at? 

So on Thursday I went to Sphalaphala, KwaMnyandu eMlazi. I wasn't sure what I wanted to do, but after going through their website, I decided I should try a treatment and a style, and since I'm running every morning (summer body being built IN summer), I decided Bantu knots would be the best hairstyle.

Online Presence

Accessibility 

Their contact details are on every social media page as well as their website. I had problems getting through to them (which is understandable because it's a landline) but once the line went through, the call was answered immediately.  I didn't use the email option, but there is an email address and they clearly state that you can use any of their social media pages to contact them.

Sphalaphala Landing Page

Booking Process

So I called them on Tuesday to enquire if I could book an appointment, but I was told that because its the holiday season, and they are busy, they only take walk-ins. I must admit I was a bit annoyed because I hate uncertainty especially when it comes to my schedule, and I was not in the mood to spend my whole day at a salon. When I was there though, a lady arrived and said she had a 14h00 appointment, and unfortunately for her, the lady who was doing my hair was the one she had made the appointment with, so she had to wait. Anyways hearing this made me feel some type of way because it meant that regular patrons were treated differently to us first-timers but that's a story for another day.

Location

Facilities 

Products

Don't mind the wig in the background

Hair Stylist

Fancy Earprotection

Pricelist

General Experience

Me and my drank

Mimosa Dah-ling

The Results

Sphalaphala Details

Oils are great for your hair and because there is such a variety, all with different properties. There is almost an oil for your each of your hair needs... well except one; MOISTURISING. Water (or any water based product, like a good leave-in conditioner) is the only one true moisturiser. Oils are more like aids, working in conjunction with a Liquid/ Leave-in conditioner in order to get moisture to your hair cuticle, or by keeping moisture LOCed in.



Oils can be separated into two categories: Moisturising oils (I don't like the phrase) and Sealing oils.

Moisturising oils

Moisturising oils refer to oils whose molecular structure is such that it can penetrate the hair shaft , bringing the moisture in. A very limited quantity of the oil penetrates the hair,  meaning that most of the oil that doesn't penetrate the shaft will also end up coating the hair shaft. This coat will however thin down during the day, and eventually disappears.

What do they do:

• Prevent hygral fatigue (hair cuticle expanding excessively when wet and contracting when dry, which leads to hair stretching excessively causing breakage over time).
• Strengthen Hair
• Improve elasticity 
• Retain moisture

When to use  Moisturising (penetrative)

• As a pre-poo (to prevent hygral fatigue)
• In conjunction with your liquid/leave-in conditioner, so in your daily spritz mix
• Oil Rinse 
• Add to deep conditioners

Examples of Moisturising oils:

• Avocado Oil
• Babassu oil
• Coconut Oil
• Olive Oil
• Sunflower oil

Sealing oil

Oils that do not penetrate the hair shaft and work best to LOC (seal) the moisture. Since the oils sit on top of shaft, they add shine/ lustre to hair. If you have thin hair, or low porosity hair, then heavy oils such as Jamaican Black Castor oil might weigh your hair down, leaving your hair feeling limp and greasy. Opt for lighter sealant, marked with (L) in below list.

What do they do:

• Seal in the moisture
• Frizz control (here you want to use oils that are both penetrative and sealing e.g argan oil, grapeseed 
• Add shine 
• Retain Moisture
• Prevents (slows down) the evaporation of water (moisture)

When to use sealing oils: 

• After you have washed and moisturised your hair

Examples of Sealing oils: 

• Flaxseed oil
• Grapeseed oil (L)
• Hempseed oil
• Jojoba oil (L)
• Jamaican Black Castor Oil
• Sweet almond oil (L)

I am one of those people who grew up not washing their own hair. When I was younger, my mom would wash my hair and as I got older, I would go to the salon. Granted, I did not wash my hair every week, maybe once a month (no judgement please), so my wash days always coincided with when I needed to relax my hair or when I went for treatment. So when I went natural, having to not only wash my own hair, but to do it weekly was a daunting task.



Despite the complaints, wash days aren't that bad, especially if you start looking at them as part of your self care days. Get some wine, create a playlist and do everything systematically.

1. Detangling

First things first, section your hair. Afros are A LOT, and when you combine that with a big head, approaching your kinks as one task will not only leave your frustrated but you are likely to be left confused.

What you will need:

- Water (or aloe vera juice)
-Hair clips (to section your hair)
- Coconut oil (which will work as a pre-poo)- provides slip and penetrates cuticles, hydrophobic so it prevents your hair from soaking up too much water
-Your fingers (manicured so they don't snag and break your hair)
- A wide tooth comb (and or a detangling brush)

The Process

• Dampen your hair. (damp, not soaking wet).
• Divide your hair into sections and work with one section at a time. If you get to a section that's dried up, spritz it again.
• Apply coconut oil and wait approximately 2 minutes so your hair can soften and the coconut oil can penetrate your cuticle
• Go through each section with your fingers unravel any major tangles with your fingers. You might have to cut any knots you locate, especially if they are on a single strand.
• Start from the tips to the the root and comb your hair using a wide tooth comb (NB- You can leave the combing for when you have conditioner on)

Step 2: Pre-poo

Now if you have read natural hair blogs, you would have seen the words 'pre-poo' or pre-'treatment'. This refers to applying an oil onto your hair before washing it. This is done to prevent hygral fatigue - damage to your hair caused by your hair shaft expanding when wet and contracting when dry. Because of the oils hydrophobicity (oil repels water), it prevents the hair shaft from expanding too much (yeah I know that's a whole lot of science things). Anyways, since you used coconut oil to detangle, you incorporated pre-pooing into your detangling (YAAASS!!!)

Step 3: Shampooing

Well there isn't much here except to remind you to use sulphate free shampoo. Also concentrate on your scalp, gently rubbing it with the tips of your fingers, not your nails.

Step 4: Apply deep conditioner or hot oil treatment

I normally undo each section, apply my conditioner or hot oil mix then re-twist my hair. You don't have to do the same, I just want to make sure that every section of my hair gets the goodness (LOL). I then wrap my head in clingwrap or I just put a plastic bag and tie a knot.

Now this is the waiting part. You can either:
a) Put on a cap and go for a quick run to generate heat
b) Put on a head wrap and run some errands
c) Warm a towel and wrap around your head and watch your favourite show
d) Put on a doek and sleep


Basically find something, anything to do in the 30, 45mins or even 8hrs that you are treating your hair

Step 5: Rinse with a conditioner

Use a conditioner to rinse your hair and wrap it in a cotton t-shirt to dry (note most sponsored t-shirts are cotton so you don't have to go out and buy one).  Co-washing refers to jumping from step 1 straight to step 5. This is a shortened wash day, one that you do to tick a box of being a good natural who does her weekly washes (Im kidding)

Step 6: Base scalp, LOC and style

• Base your scalp with a light oil (sweet almond, jojoba and or argan oil)
• Moisturise your strands using the LOC method (see instagram post on LOC method)
• Comb through using a comb and detangling brush
• Stretch and/or style

If you aren't looking to do a twist out, or bantu knots, I suggest just plaiting your hair, leaving it to dry and stretch without using any heat. Depending on your hair, it can take a full day for your hair to dry. I have low porosity hair so drying mohair is a long ting. I either stay at home the whole day, or I head wrap my hair and go. It's honestly up to you.


And that's it. A complete wash day. For my products, please see My Current Products and Regime. I also have posts on Natural Essentials that include Tools and Products that I believe every natural should have.

Some Resources:

They aren't South African but the videos aren't too long (Data struggles) and entertaining:

1. Chizi Duru Wash Day- Its 5 mins, the brand she used isn't available in SA but you can substitute it for AfroBotanics products, that way you will be support a Black woman owned proudly South African Brand. She uses a towel instead of a T-shirt  **side-eye**
2. Apple Cider Mix Wash Day
3. Finger Detangling
4.  A Wash Day that doesn't take all day

Now I know we already a month into summer (please don't tell me about Spring) so this post is slightly late. With the end of a long and depressive winter, 1 September marks the beginning of what we call 'Silly Season'. Event organisers get out their white couches, we take out our picnic baskets and spend the weekends outside drinking and soaking in the sun. Now although this is great for the soul, its not great for your hair.



Now, your hair reacts differently to each season, but in summer, you might find that it:

• You will struggle to retain moisture and your hair will feel dry and brittle
• It will feel limp and and lifeless- This is especially common for people who stay in humid areas like your coastal areas
• Sweaty scalp that leads to itchy scalp, dandruff and frizz
• Discolouration, especially if your hair is already colour treated. 

How to  protect your hair

1. Protective Styles 

The easiest and most full proof methods when it comes to protecting your hair during every season is protective styling. Braids, cornrows, wigs etc are all great ways to keep your hair safe from the nature's elements. Just remember to wash and moisturise your hair even when its 'hidden'. If you will be wearing a head wrap, then make sure wear a silk/satin scarf underneath.

2. Use shampoo sparingly

This is especially important if you plan on swimming. As you know, shampoo strips your hair of oils which can leave your hair dry and brittle. This means your hair will be especially prone to breakage if it is constantly exposed to harsh chemicals like chlorine. If you sweat a lot, then opt for co-washing and if you must use a shampoo, use sulphate-free shampoo and make sure you pre-poo before you wash your hair.

3. Moisturise

Now Im sure you are tired of hearing about the importance of moisturising, but it really is the most important step in having a healthy afro. Make sure you use a daily spritz, more than once if necessary.  I recently struggled with dry hair, so I started using the baggy/ greenhouse effect method to moisturise my hair. Consider using Aloe Vera juice instead of water in your daily spritz.  Also remember to drink water because what is happening inside will definitely show on your skin and hair. This is especially important if you plan to be drinking.

This is water with fruits, not Gin

4. Deep condition and Hot oil treatments

If you are going to be out in the sun, swimming, I would suggest you do a full blown wash day every week instead of every other week. This will make sure your hair retains moisture. Few Moisture retention recipes you can try out:

Egg Mask

• 1/4 Cup Plain Yoghurt
• 1/4 Cup Mayonnaise 
• 1 Egg

Mix all ingredients, cover hair for 45mins- 1hr then rinse using a conditioner

Banana and Honey Mask

1 mashed Banana (make sure you mash it  enough otherwise you will spend the whole day picking banana bits from your hair)

• 1 Egg
• 3 Tablespoons
• 3 Tablespoons milk 
• 5 Tablespoons Raw Organic Honey

Mix all ingredients, cover hair for 45mins- 1hr then rinse

Coconut, Avocado and Honey mask 

• 1 mashed Avocado
• 4 Tablespoons Coconut Oil
• 2 Tablespoons Raw Organic Honey

Mix all ingredients, cover hair for 45mins- 1hr then rinse

5. Avoid Heat, chemical treatment and over manipulation

Having a colourful hair in summer is a definite mood, but like most chemical treatments, hair dyes tend to dry your hair. If you want to dye your hair, consider dying it a month before the sun comes out in full force. Once you die your hair, remember to 'CARE FOR YOUR COLOUR'. This means deep conditioning, spritzing and doing a whole lot of extra work. If you plan on washing your hair, give yourself time for it to air dry so you don't have to use any heat. If you must use heat, then use a heat protectant.

Blonde-Pink TWA

6. Baggy or Greenhouse method overnight

If you have spent time out in the sun the whole day and your hair feels 'sum typa way', then consider doing the baggy method over night. This involves applying leave-in conditioner, a sealant oil and wrapping your hair with plastic bag (you can use cling wrap) and then sleeping. This method uses the heat that your head radiates and allows for the absorption of moisture that would evaporate under normal circumstances.  This will leave your hair feeling moisturised and Frizz Free.

These are the basic ways in which you can have better hair in summer. Just remember to keep it simple and moisturised

1. Water

Contrary to popular belief, black hair LOVES water.  Keeping your natural hair moisturised is probably the most important thing when it comes to maintaining healthy natural hair and water is how you achieve that. You will use water on wash days (a weekly or bi-weekly event that you should block off on your calendar), in your spritz (again, I'll post some recipes) and when you are looking for a good leave-in conditioner or moisturiser, you will make sure that 'aqua' (water) is the first ingredient.

2. Sulphate-Free Shampoo

So I did chemistry in in high school and varsity, but I only just found out that sulphates were not only key ingredients in hair product, but that they actually weren't good fro my 'fro.

> What are Suphates: In plain english, sulphates are what attracts water, oil and dirt and allows them to be removed from hair and skin i.e they help clean your hair and skin

>Why are they are bad: They strip ALL the oils, even your hair's natural oils. This will leave your hair feeling dry and brittle. They can also cause a dry, itchy scalp if you have sensitive skin. 

> Solution: SULPHATE-FREE* Shampoos. Most shampoo companies will declare ALL over their bottles that their product is sulphate free, but if you want to be sure, just check the label and discard the bottle if you see any of these three popular ingredients: sodium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate and ammonium laureth sulphate. 

I currently use the SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen and Restore Shampoo and although its really pricey (I bought it for about R260 at Clicks a while back) it is worth every cent. It leaves my hair feeling like clouds that inspire poetry. ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE.  There are a variety of Sulphate free shampoos, some that I haven't tried because my shampoo lasts a ridiculously long time, so please feel free to try out as many brands as you like up until you find the brand that loves your hair and your pocket. 

Sulphate Free Products at Clicks: R260

3. Conditioner

In the natural hair world, conditioner is what you use after you shampoo your hair OR sometimes what you use to wash your hair INSTEAD of shampoo (aka co-washing). Conditioners come with a bunch of benefits (which brands will tell you all about on the bottle) but to us, conditioner mainly helps with reducing friction and making our hair more manageable. During your wash day, you will most probably comb your hair when you have conditioner on as it will help prevent breakage.

Again there are multiple conditioners on the market and 3 years into my hair journey, I am still buying different brands. Im currently using OGX Coconut Curls Conditioner, but I haven't used it long enough to write a review. Before that I used HASK conditioners and they worked really well when I used them with HASK shampoos. However when I switched to SheaMoisture shampoo, my hair felt dryer after conditioning than before I applied the product.

OGX Coconut Curls Conditioner: R165

4. Deep Conditioner and/or Protein Treatments

This where you will probably have the most fun. Deep conditioners and hair masks normally come in sachets (unless you are fancy like SheaMoisture) that you will use and finish with each treatment. This allows you to experiment and try out different types without worrying about left over product. I have probably used all the HASK treatments because I buy them whenever Clicks has a buy 3 for 2 special and they have all treated me well. I tend to always go back to the Dr Miracles Deep conditioner which I either use alone or I'll mix in some avocado, castor oil etc for that little extra sumthin'. Like I said, this is one of the areas that you can allow your creative juices to flow. I literally become a witch brewing the most amazing hair concoctions in my kitchen.

I will recommend doing some sort of a treatment at least every second wash day. This is normally on the days I use shampoo (other times I co-wash) because I know I will replenish all the oils that might have been removed during the shampooing process.

Hair Treatments

5. Oils (Carrier and Essentials)

You will use oils to:

• Base your scalp - I use Sweet almond+ Jojoba+Argan Oil mix
• Fix your hairline: Jamaican Black Castor oil +Peppermint oil + Lavender oil
• Seal in the moisture during the LOC- Sweet almond or Jojoba
• Hot oil treatment- Here I experiment depending on what I want to achieve. My base is normally a carrier oil (coconut or castor oil) and then I mix some essential oils. The kind of oils I mix is entirely based on what Im trying to achieve. You can read about what each oil does here. 

A natural witch's brewing session

6. Butter

Here you can use the raw product (shea butter, avocado butter, cocoa butter etc.) or you can buy already mixed hair butter, which is normally a blend of butters and some oils. Its important to note that butters don't moisturise your hair, but instead seal in the moisture and prevent it from drying. This why you must apply it AFTER you have applied your leave-in-conditioner. Butters are actually the Cream in the LOC moisturising method. This therefore means you would apply your Leave-in-conditioner, then a *light Oil (sweet almond or jojoba) followed by your butter.

Butters are also great for achieving the defined twist out or any other style as you can use them to slick your hair back without having use too much gel.

You can get your butter in bulk from Daolus Organic Products.

Butters

One of the most daunting things about starting anything new is 'where to start' and when it comes to natural hair, its 'WHAT DO I NEED?'. Below is a list of what I consider essentials for when you begin your natural hair journey. These are the basics, so you are more than welcome to have more.

1. Patience

Now I know this isn't a tool, but its something you have to have. Remember you are learning something new, so you won't get it right the first time round. You hair won't grow as fast as you thought, you twist out will look like limp spaghetti and your arms will hurt. Not every product will work first time round and sometimes the product that everybody L.O.V.E.S doesn't love you back. Be patient and try again.

2. Fingers

When I say fingers, I mean well manicured nails. You will use you fingers to detangle your hair, to style it and to 'comb' it. You don't need to have acrylic or gel nails, just make sure you file them down so that there aren't any rough edges that will snag and rip your hair.

Manicured Nails

3. Wide tooth comb

A wide tooth comb refers is a comb with large spaces between the teeth. When it comes to natural hair, minimal manipulation is best. Some 'naturalistas' choose not to comb their hair, choosing to rather only finger detangle, but if you are like me and like to combine methods, getting yourself a wide tooth comb is important. A wide tooth comb will help prevent hair breakage, split ends while being gentle on your scalp. I got mine at Clicks for R25, but The Body Shop has these wooden ones for R85 that I HAVE to get  because I like pretty things. Notice how wide the teeth are and also that they are both seamless which will prevent any snagging that can lead to breakage

Wooden Body Shop Comb

Clicks Wide Tooth Comb

4. Afro Comb (aka Afro Pick)

I mean the name says it all, it was designed with our kinks in mind. Unlike the wide tooth comb, the afro comb is used to fluff out your hair and to get rid of the lines from the sections you created when you were styling. You won't comb your hair with it, but instead will insert near the root and lift it from the root up a distance of approximately 2cm. This will fluff out the hair, creating more volume.

Afro Comb- R22

5. Spritz  Bottle

Spritz Bottle

6. Applicator bottle

Applicator Bottle Nozzle

7. Hair Clips

8. Satin/ Silk Scaft, Bonnet or Pillow Case

9. Plastic Cap

10. Headwraps

Me

I hope this list helps everyone who is beginning their natural hair journey. My next post will be about   essential natural hair products.