Hair Necessities
In South Africa, our natural hair movement is still in its infancy, so most of the products used by international bloggers are not available to us. We don't have the options of walking into a super market and buying the likes of Shea Moisture or Carol's Daughter, so most of us opt for mixing oils and other kitchen ingredients. There are many different oils, each with different properties. It is therefore important to first understand what your hair needs before buying every and any 'miracle oil'
There are many oil groups, but there are two main oils for hair; carrier and essential oils. These oils are normally used in together in order to get the best results.
Carrier Oils
Carrier oils are also known as base oil and are derived seeds or nuts. Carrier oils are great from moisturising, strengthening and nourishing hair. They are also used to 'carry' or dilute essential oils as essentials oils are sometimes concentrated and can cause skin irritation when used alone.
Below I have listed a few popular oils, but there are a lot more out there so if you have a particular problem that none the oils below seem to address, feel free to ask in the comments section (I’m not an expert, but we can definitely try help each other out)
Argan oil
- Great for coarse, dry, or chemically-processed hair
- Nourishes damaged strands and reduces split ends.
- Contain Vitamin E therefore is great for treating hair that has been damaged by over styling.
- It’s rather pricey, (costs me R169 for a 50ml bottle) so only use a few drops at a time. I literally add a few drops in my daily spritz, a few drops in shea butter mix as well mix a few drops with my sweet almond oil and use that to base my scalp
Avocado Oil
- Contains vitamins A, E, D and potassium.
- Great moisturizer as it readily penetrates into the hair strand.
- Easily absorbed by the skin so will not leave hair (and scalp) feeling greasy. This is why it’s my oil of choice in my daily spritz
- Add it to you deep conditioner, use it as a pre-poo treatment or use it as a sealant (thin layer of oil applied after moisturising).
Castor Oil
- Thickens hair
- Contains Omega-6 fatty acids which helps nourish and soften hair. It therefore best to apply oil at the end of the moisturising process.
- Reduce frizz and split ends. This can be done by mixing castor oil with a light oil and combing hair just before wash.
- Castor oil is a thick oil so it is best to combine it with other oils or just to apply it to your problem areas e.g. on your edges/ hairline just before bed
** I personally don’t like the smell of castor oil as it bring up horrific childhood memories of my mom forcing me to drink it after I had over-indulged during the holidays( Castor oil is also a laxative). I therefore only ever use it as part of my hot oil treatment. I add lavender to cover the smell **
Coconut Oil (Contender #1 for the “King of the Carrier Oils” title)
- Can be used to treat dandruff when applied directly to scalp just before washing hair
- Considered to one of the best moisturizers
- Able to bind to natural protein structure of hair fibre, helping retain moisture and therefore making it stronger.
- Natural sunscreen, so if planning to spend the day at the beach or by the pool, apply coconut oil as a leave-in conditioner before stepping out.
- Rich in proteins, Vitamin E, lauric acid and saturated fats that help keep hair soft, shiny and manageable
- Coconut oil can be used at any point in your regime, depending on what you want to achieve: Add it to your deep conditioner, use it as a daily detangler or as part of your hot oil treatment.
***Remember its solidifies, so you need to melt it first before using it***
Hazelnut
- Softens hair
- Makes hair colour shinier and sharper so great if you have recently couloured your hair.
Hempseed Oil
- Is a ceramide oil which is a polar lipid which means it not only protects hair by creating a barrier but also limits the loss of proteins,
- It reinforces cuticle cohesion which strengthens hair.
- Natural anti-oxidant.
- Protects against moisture loss and is therefore great to use in winter as the cold weather outside and heaters indoors dry hair.
***So while doing research for this post, I found out that Hempseed oil is oil from the seeds of hemp plant which is actually cannabis aka weed *claps once*. I don’t know if you can dip a rizzla in it and smoke it, but it’s really good for your hair. Please use it responsibly***
Jojoba Oil (Contender #2 for the “King of the Carrier Oils” title)
- Penetrates down into the scalp and hair shaft, dissolving build-up of sebum that clogs hair follicles
- Has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and is therefore great for treating dandruff.
- Adds shine, elasticity and softens hair when used as part of conditioner
- Best used by mixing it shampoo and conditioner. You can also apply it on wet hair after washing it, but it is a heavy oil so it can leave hair looking greasy. I personally prefer applying it to my scalp the night before wash day and allowing to work while I sleep, only to wash it off the next day
Neem Oil
- High levels of antioxidants which protect scalp and therefore encourage hair growth.
- Natural head lice remedy
- It is antibacterial, anti-fungal, antiseptic and an anti-inflammatory so not only will it help get rid of dandruff causing fungi, its anti-inflammatory properties will help soothe any redness and scalp irritation.
***It really STINKS. There are retailers that have tried to mask the smell of Neem oil, but the chemical manipulation could affect how effective it is. It’s best to mix it with lavender as well as other carrier oils before applying it to scalp. Leave on hair for as long as you can stand the smell (an hour or so) and wash***
Olive Oil
- Natural conditioner which makes it a great oil to treat a dry scalp.
- Makes hair soft and shiny
- Antibacterial and antifungal
- Cheap compared to most of the oils on this list
- Can be used in your hot oil treatment, add it to your deep conditioner or applied to hair just before shampooing it.
- Extra Virgin Olive oil is the best one to buy and use
Sweet Almond Oil
- Fast absorbing carrier oil that is non-greasy
- Rich in magnesium, calcium and zinc. A deficiency of these minerals can lead to hair loss and poor growth.
- Best oil for hair that is dry and great for those with irritated, sensitive or dry scalp problems. It is soothing and nourishing to the skin.
***Currently mix it with a few drops of argan oil and base my scalp with it***
Essential Oils
Essential oils are lightweight with smaller molecular sizes and structures which makes them great for scalp and skin penetration. Essential oils have own manual scalp stimulation properties which when massaged or warmed can increase circulation which in turn helps nourish the hair follicle. Essential oils are normally concentrated and sometimes cause irritation when used alone, it is therefore advised to mix a few drops with carrier oils before using them on body. Because the nature of essential oils, it is strongly advised to consult your doctor before using them when pregnant.
Chamomile Oil
- Most soothing of essential oils
- Retracts skin cells that have been inflamed from chemical procedures and or harsh conditions
- Helps treat scaly scalp and dandruff
- Good conditioner
Lavender
- Great treatment for dandruff
- Helps prevent hair breakage and improving hair growth
- Daily massages help regrow your edges
- It smells great so you can use it mask the bad smell of other oils e.g. castor oil
- Blends well with jojoba, rosemary and tea tree oils
Lemon Oil
- Great for oily hair
- Good treatment for dry scalp, dandruff, lice and under-active sebaceous glands
- Not advisable for people with dry hair
Myrrh Oil
- Good for dry hair
- Good treatment for dry scalp, dandruff, lice and underactive sebaceous glands
- Use instead of Lemon oil if you have dry hair
Rosemary Oil
- Both fragrant and essential oil
- Stimulates and promotes hair growth
- Helps treat dandruff and flaky itchy scalp
Rose Oil
- Good for fine, low density oil
- Strengthens hair at root
- Protects against frizz
- Adds Shine
Peppermint Oil
- Stimulates blood flow to the root of the hair. The stimulated blood flow helps hair receive proper nourishment and therefore will lead to hair growth.
Sage
- Best essential oil for clarifying the scalp
- Cleanses impurities out of scalp
Tea Tree Oil
- Stimulates hair growth
- Great moisturizer
- Unblocks the sebaceous glands and encourages the slow of the scalps own moisturizing oils while clearing away dead skin cells
- Good scalp treatments and relieving dandruff
